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How To Take Apart Elite Series 2

Introduction

After extended use, the bumper switches may become less responsive even if the bumpers themselves are not damaged. This guide volition demonstrate the disassembly, replacement, and reassembly of the controller to replace these switches.

  1. Slightly differing from the previous model, the faceplate needs to be removed before anything else. Begin by removing the joystick caps and d-pad cover. Once these are removed, you'll need to begin working an opening tool along with the picks around the faceplate starting at the top-left or top right. Slowly work around the faceplate to loosen the clips using primarily the plastic opening tools to prevent any damage to the faceplate & internal components.

    • Slightly differing from the previous model, the faceplate needs to be removed before anything else. Begin past removing the joystick caps and d-pad cover.

    • Once these are removed, y'all'll need to begin working an opening tool forth with the picks effectually the faceplate starting at the top-left or summit correct.

    • Slowly work around the faceplate to loosen the clips using primarily the plastic opening tools to prevent any damage to the faceplate & internal components.

  2. This is the only part in the face removal I would suggest using the metal spudger as you'll need a little more leverage to release the adhesive holding the faceplate down. Insert the metal spudger in the area located but only as far as you need to get some leverage to pry the faceplate up. Work cautiously and slowly as this can easily damage components.

    • This is the only part in the confront removal I would suggest using the metal spudger as yous'll need a trivial more leverage to release the adhesive holding the faceplate down.

    • Insert the metal spudger in the area located but only as far as you lot need to get some leverage to pry the faceplate up. Work cautiously and slowly equally this tin can easily damage components.

    • The adhesive is located in two places and because this doesn't seal the device together for IP-67/68 requirements, it isn't necessary to supercede.

  3. The joysticks are screwed onto the stem of the potentiometers and will need some convincing to remove. These will need to be twisted counter-clockwise to remove with either of the following methods: Method 1: Using a joystick cap - try this first regardless as it has less possibility of damaging the device. Insert one of the joystick caps to each of the joysticks and attempt to twist by hand. If they are too tight, proceed to the second method.

    • The joysticks are screwed onto the stalk of the potentiometers and will need some disarming to remove. These volition demand to be twisted counter-clockwise to remove with either of the following methods:

    • Method one: Using a joystick cap - try this starting time regardless every bit it has less possibility of damaging the device. Insert 1 of the joystick caps to each of the joysticks and endeavor to twist past mitt. If they are besides tight, go on to the second method.

    • Method 2: Using pliers - using equally petty force every bit necessary to prevent slipping, squeeze the joystick nearly the base, where the bevel allows for a "flat edge" that the pliers tin can grip. Once these are loose, revert to method i to go on the removal.

  4. Remove the six T-8 Security screws holding the front and the back of the controller together. Note: one (highlighted green) is covered by a white paste/sticker that crumbles when removed; this lets you know if someone has previously disassembled your device. Once the screws are removed, you can insert a spudger under a vibration motor to provide a little leverage to separate the front from the back of the device. The third image shows the front assembly removed from the back cover.

    • Remove the six T-eight Security screws holding the front and the back of the controller together. Note: one (highlighted green) is covered by a white paste/sticker that crumbles when removed; this lets you know if someone has previously disassembled your device.

    • Once the screws are removed, you can insert a spudger under a vibration motor to provide a little leverage to separate the front from the back of the device.

    • The third image shows the front end assembly removed from the back cover.

  5. Begin by peeling back the tape (tweezers might help) covering the connection on the green board. While holding the tape back, insert the plastic pointed spudger under the connections, and the force of pushing the spudger under them should be enough to release them from the board. While holding the tape back, insert the plastic pointed spudger under the connections, and the force of pushing the spudger under them should be enough to release them from the board.

    • Begin by peeling back the tape (tweezers might help) covering the connection on the green board.

    • While holding the tape back, insert the plastic pointed spudger under the connections, and the forcefulness of pushing the spudger under them should be plenty to release them from the board.

  6. The wires will need to be desoldered from the board, and will be replaced later for reassembly. Note: each pair of wires has the black cable soldered to the lower connection; keep this in mind for the reassembly if the pictures from this guide aren't nearby.

    • The wires will need to exist desoldered from the lath, and will be replaced later for reassembly.

    • Note: each pair of wires has the black cable soldered to the lower connexion; continue this in mind for the reassembly if the pictures from this guide aren't nearby.

    • Annotation: Yous may be able to get away without desoldering these, depending on what you demand to reach (credit to @bikemerlin), but due to the simplicity and fragility of these connections, I would advise removing them to prevent additional damage.

    • Some of the solder in this controller requires a very high temperature to release. I had mine set to 450 C, nevertheless you may be able to remove it at a lower temperature.

    • Remove the two T-vi screws from the board nearly the vibration motors.

  7. Begin removing the motherboard by sliding it up along the pins (as noted in the picture). The left side will need to be lifted off of its pin and the board rotated counter-clockwise at a slight angle before it will be able to slide the remaining distance off of the right (longer) pin. The triggers will flex up a bit which allows a little extra room for the board. As with everything else in this disassembly, use caution and patience to prevent damage to any of the components.

    • Begin removing the motherboard by sliding it upward along the pins (equally noted in the picture). The left side will need to be lifted off of its pin and the board rotated counter-clockwise at a slight bending before it will exist able to slide the remaining distance off of the right (longer) pin.

    • The triggers volition flex up a fleck which allows a little extra room for the board. As with everything else in this disassembly, utilise circumspection and patience to foreclose damage to whatsoever of the components.

    • One time the motherboard has been removed, you may have already noticed the headphone jack has moved or fallen. If it hasn't remove it from the board now.

  8. There are two tabs holding the retainer for the bar in place. Gently pop these toward you with a spudger and they'll slide up from their own tension. Note: the retainer will likely stay attached to the bumper assembly, but must be removed from the main controller assembly before proceeding to the next step. Once the retainer has been released, again use the spudger to gently pry the buttons outward and upward (in the direction of the arrow in the image) which will release them from another clip. Do this on both sides. As user Shane Muir has pointed out, please be careful due to the fragility of the retainer in this step. It can easily be broken.

    • In that location are ii tabs belongings the retainer for the bar in place. Gently pop these toward you with a spudger and they'll slide up from their ain tension. Annotation: the retainer volition likely stay attached to the bumper assembly, simply must be removed from the main controller assembly earlier proceeding to the next step.

    • Once the retainer has been released, once more use the spudger to gently pry the buttons outward and upward (in the direction of the arrow in the image) which will release them from another clip. Do this on both sides.

    • Every bit user Shane Muir has pointed out, delight exist conscientious due to the fragility of the retainer in this step. Information technology can easily be broken.

  9. Remove the four T-6 screws holding the daughterboard to the controller frame. Keep in mind this board holds all of the remaining buttons in place, so be careful none of them are lost when removing this. Note: All of the buttons have clips surrounding them that prevent any of the buttons from being installed in the wrong place; be sure not to force any of them into a different location when reassembling the device.

    • Remove the four T-half-dozen screws holding the daughterboard to the controller frame. Go along in mind this board holds all of the remaining buttons in place, and so be careful none of them are lost when removing this.

    • Note: All of the buttons have clips surrounding them that forbid any of the buttons from being installed in the wrong place; be certain not to force any of them into a dissimilar location when reassembling the device.

    • When reassembling, practice not force annihilation into identify every bit this could point something has been installed improperly.

    • That'southward it! Hopefully this guide allowed you to admission whatever components that need replacing.

  10. The circled areas on the image indicate the switches and their respective connections that will need to be desoldered and replaced. If you don't have access to a desoldering gun, this will be much easier by cutting the old switches into pieces. Take care to leave as much of each of the pins as possible to provide something to pull against for removal.

    • The circled areas on the prototype signal the switches and their corresponding connections that will need to exist desoldered and replaced.

    • If y'all don't accept access to a desoldering gun, this volition exist much easier past cut the one-time switches into pieces. Have care to leave as much of each of the pins as possible to provide something to pull against for removal.

    • The switches are shaped so they must be pressed into the socket with a decent amount of force; this is what makes the removal so hard.

    • Insert your soldering iron tip within the pigsty and use the pump from the other side to remove all of the solder.

    • Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of this process, withal, this is where the desoldering pump becomes a necessity. The new switches volition demand ample room to be inserted in the holes, then you lot'll accept to make sure there is no remaining solder in them.

    • Once the switches have enough clearance to be inserted, they volition hold themselves in place as they accept enough outward tension to practise so.

    • Add new solder to the connections.

    • Depending on the replacement switches you lot purchased, yous may demand to shave the arm downwards that pushes on the switch. This is the function of the bumper that extends downward and physically presses the switch itself.

    • This was required for my device as I had leftover Xbox 360 switches that seem to be more tactile and durable than the Xbox I variants.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in opposite social club.

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How To Take Apart Elite Series 2,

Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Xbox+One+Elite+Wireless+Controller+Series+2+Bumper+Switches+Replacement/144120

Posted by: mcmeansboubsed.blogspot.com

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